On the Street Where You Live

On the Street Where You Live
Bye snowy seagull... time to start thinking warm thoughts.

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Goodbye Flensburg



Am grauen Strand, am grauen Meer
Und seitab liegt die Stadt;
Der Nebel drückt die Dächer schwer,
Und durch die Stille braust das Meer
Eintönig um die Stadt.               
By the grey shore, by the grey sea,
And set apart, lies the town;
The fog lies heavy on the roofs,
And through the stillness roars the sea,
dully around the town.


Es rauscht kein Wald, es schlägt im Mai
Kein Vogel ohn' Unterlaß;
Die Wandergans mit hartem Schrei
Nur fliegt in Herbstesnacht vorbei,
Am Strande weht das Gras.
No forest murmurs, nor do birds
Sing constantly in May;
Only the goose on autumn nights,
With its harsh cry, flies by,
On the shore the grasses sway.


Doch hängt mein ganzes Herz an dir,
Du graue Stadt am Meer;
Der Jugend Zauber für und für
Ruht lächelnd doch auf dir, auf dir,
Du graue Stadt am Meer. 
Yet all my heart belongs to you,
You grey town by the sea;
The magic of my youth, evermore
Will rest and smile on you, on you,
You grey town by the sea.




-Theodor Storm 1851





This year has changed me forever, and though it morphs now from present to past it will stay with me permanently into the infinite abyss of the future.

It is with this that I officially say Auf Wiedersehen. Until we meet again.

With love,
Meredith

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

The story of a year

Nostalgia, and the very misguided thought that if I avoid posting re-cap like blog entries this month this year will not actually ever end, have prevented me from posting and entry this June.

But the world spins madly on, and whether I like it or not I'm close enough to coming home that I can check the 10 day forecast. It's time to recap.


But where do I even begin? There has been as much learning (if not infinitely more) and growing in these past 10 months as I experienced in my entire 4 years of college. When I look back at the jungles of red tape I navigated through to get to this my final and emotional week of Fulbright I can hardly believe I survived--and not just survive but flourish.

The journey that took me from being homeless to having an apartment and roommates with whom I could travel on a casual weekend vacation is one filled with stories, lessons, mishaps, and lots of pictures. And if you're interested I'd like to recap this journey with the pictures I took.



The Journey Begins- September 1, 2010

Upon arrival I was surprised that the vest I had worn to be merely a pillow on the plane was actually NEEDED as a piece of warm clothing in the cold north. If only knew at that point how much colder it was to get...

I started the year without an apartment, but thankful for my Advisor who took me in as his 5th kid and pseudo nanny. 


Sleeping on the floor and living out of boxes for the first month.

Despite the stress of apt searching, I am so thankful for this first month as it provided me a family with whom I have been able to share so much this year. Thank you Lemke's for adopting me as your extra daughter. 


The other (real) Lemke daughters. 




But I did eventually find an apartment. Thank God. 

It had no furniture, no heat, and no real window, but hey--I'll take what I can get. 

There is something incredibly powerful about seeing a work in process. 

The final product--built with my own 2 hands. If that doesn't give you a feeling of accomplishment, I don't know what will. 


Once the apartment was settled it was time to find friends. What a strange concept... I'm still baffled as to how everything turned out. I am so thankful for my American friends, German friends, International friends, and colleagues. I feel so lucky.

Foundations of the Fulbright Family at Orientation September 6. 

The whole "fam" in Greece April 28

German friends/roommates grilling out on the beach

Tuesday night International dinner crew--Bastian from Norway, Benedikte from Denmark, Lisa from Lübeck, and me from Amurica (my roomate Wiebke is standing in for me).  How we all met up is a mystery--God has crazy and unpredictable plans and I'm just thankful they always seem to work out. 


These friendships led to so many unbelievable experiences. This part of the post could go on forever, but I'll do my best to give an overview of some of the cool things I've done and seen this year.

Family at Oktoberfest--our first of many trips together
First of 7 trips to Cologne--my german home away from home!


Apple picking with the girls in the fall on the coast


Thanksgiving--one of my favorite memories of all time
Christmas cookies at the apartment
Christmas Market with high school friends and fellow fulbrighters in Vienna


The only way to survive January--Karaoke with Wiebke

Skiing is the other survival alternative. Ski Jumping world cup in Willingen--January 2011. 

Ski Apres--dancing in our boots only to ski down the mountain in the pitch black of the early morning in February

Dancing at the Fulbright Ball in Heidelberg February
More dancing (there was a lot of dancing this year) at Karneval in Cologne. March 2011
More academic endeavors at the Brandenburg Gate in Berlin for the Fulbright Conference. March 2011

Going out in Hamburg's famous Red Light District in March


Hanging out at the Forum in Rome, Italy


Enjoying an Easter celebration in Mykeonos with Marie




Parthenon--Athens April 2011
Enjoying a Flensburger on the Harbor with friends in May--it's finally warm enough to sit outside!

Golfing in Denmark

Enjoying the finally blooming flowers in Hamburg in May

From the Rathaus in Hannover. May 2011

Sailing with Wiebke June 2011

Biking in Sylt on vacation with the roommates June 2011




And that's only a small small taste of it. The most memorable experiences are the incapturable things--my first handball game, first full lesson as a teacher, first University class (and registering for that in general).

The real parts of my daily life were the most important--the breakfast talks with my roommates, the baking sessions with good friends and the adventures of learning how to cook in a foreign language--how do you quantify that? How do you document that? I wish I could but I can't.

As a consolation I can share with you the stirring beauty of life in the north--God's reward for surviving the darkest winter I've ever experienced.  Maybe that you can compare that power to the power of everyday life.


The absolute beauty of living in the North. 




The spectacular wonder of the Scandinavian Sky. Is this the sunrise or the sunset? I don't know! Horizon at 12:40am in Sylt. 

The Red Cliffs of Sylt


Evening Harbor in Flensburg

Expansive mudflats of the West Coast

Windmills

And Canola fields of Schleswig-Holstein

Medieval Charm

Northern Coastal Thatched Roofs
Sunsets--so many. So beautiful. Tonight (summer solstice) the sun sets at 10:04pm. Which means it's still light enough to ride my bike without a light at 11:15. 



Try as I might to capture the beauty of this year--the growth, the experience, the joys and the pains--I know there are no amount of words or pictures that could do this justice. It will just be my personal secret I guess and hopefully I'll be able to let it shine through enough for you to see the beauty of this experience too when I get back. 8 days. See you soon.  

Sunday, May 29, 2011

I'm German!

It's hard to believe that there was a time when I was utterly unsuccessful at being German. I often wondered in those step-cleaning, bureaucracy battling, oh-my-god-it's-raining-AGAIN?- moments if I would ever have the chance to write a blog post where I could say "Ahh, finally. Germany--I get it! I LOVE it! Transformation complete!"

Well, it took a while I suppose, but here I am with 30 days to go, and I think I'm about as close as I'm going to get.

So what does that actually mean, being German?

Well, I'm glad you asked, and with the help of a few pictures, anecdotal stories and basic research I can show you how you TOO can become a German in 3 easy steps!

(As a caveat, this post represents only MY personal thoughts and experiences, and it is impossible to speak in generalities about things so serious as nationality... but it is also impossible to describe the interactions I've had with every single individual German I've ever met, so generality is all I can present. Please read accordingly.)

It only took me 9 months to conquer Steps I and II and with a little effort and maybe a lifetime of living here I could master Step III...but don't despair.... if you're willing to give up the heart of the American Dream, social mobility, blind optimism and the freedom to fail, Step III will be easy peasy!!

So dear American reader, please let me introduce you to the 3 step become-a-german program. Please feel to comment anytime if you have questions.


Step I: Be honest. (and punctual)

Are you tired of beating around the bush? Do you sometimes just want to have a respectful political discussion with no repercussions for honestly stating your opinions? Have you ever had to fight back the urge to tell a roommate/loved one that that dress does indeed accentuate the junk in her trunk, and orange is a horrible color on her?

Well then you are halfway there, my friend!

Step I of the become-German program begins by accepting the fact that politeness = respect here, and if you respect your friend you would never let them leave the house in something ugly--nor would you simply placate them by nodding along and mindlessly agreeing to their political statements as that would be disrespectful to the integrity of their arguments or beliefs.

You mean what you say and you say what you mean and that is that! When you ask "How are you?" you mean it! And you get an honest, meaningful answer in response. Usually of the negative flavor, but hey--we're just being honest here! And it is rainy a lot in Germany...

So throw your American idea of politeness = not hurting someone's feelings out the window! Put on your political hat, be forthright and honest, arrive on-time (punctuality is also very german and inherent in respecting people's time and a crucial part of Step I) and embrace your directness! Once you get the hang of that you are are ready to move on to Step II!

For more information on the application of Step I in the dating scene see Peach and Coconut entry.


Step II: Love the Environment

Once you've mastered the art of being honest and direct you're ready to conquer Step II--recycling, turning the heat down, and being generally ultra-aware of the Environment.

Awareness occurs in phases. In the first phase you will realize that not everything needs to be wrapped in plastic several times, and that bottles really can be used again/recycled! At some point it will occur to you that an entire apartment building full of about 30 people can manage to only have this many trashcans that are emptied only once a week.

Our building's trashcans--emptied once a week. Sorted for paper,  compost, and plastics

I think my college house of 3 (10x less than this building) girls went through two of these trashcans a week (a mere 3x less than here). You know you've passed through phase 1 when this idea blows your mind.

In Step II phase 2  you realize that heat is not only really expensive, it is a total waste of energy! Phase 2 is difficult because it not only requires utmost consciousness, but bear-like mental and physical strength to endure the cold.  When 58 degrees seems balmy to you, you are ready for phase 3.

Step II phase 3 is of crucial importance, and mastery of this phase brings you to a level of elite Europeans. This is not for the light of American heart and I believe most people may drop out of the program here. P3 is (drum roll please) Taking short showers and ACTUALLY employing the handheld shower head not for the sake of singing like Ferris Beuller, but for using it as your primary showering tool...WHICH MEANS in order to actually sufficiently lather you have to turn the water on and off in between lather sesh's. Saves water. Saves time. You're in and out in less than 5 minutes and you might as well have just saved the amazon river.

If you can do this--and not just because you CAN do it, but because your increasingly environmentally aware self is overrun with guilt that grows with every second you stand under the hot running water--phase 4 is inevitable.

Uttering the phrase, or harboring the silent thought "well THAT can't be good for the environment" means you are fully in german metamorphosis mode and well on your way to passing through phase 4.

If you are able to say this thought in direct and honest fashion (thereby incorporating Step I into the metamorphosis) you have finished building your cocoon, and it is time to move on to Step III.  Man, you are moving fast!

Step III: Covet thy Security

So here is the tricky part about Step III, and it is the MOST critical element in becoming a german. It requires strength, skill, and almost absolute deviation from traditional American Values.

If you've made it to this point at Step III you have successfully made your cocoon and are ready to transform into a beautiful German butterfly, but instead of breaking out of the cocoon you have made, as a german your job is to stay IN your cocoon, and make sure your cocoon is so tight and stable that it will never break.

If you still think of a credit card as "security" then you are still an American, because Germans are all about actual security--the money under the mattress kind of security--and the thought of paying for something with money that you do not presently have is absolutely the OPPOSITE of security. It is just irresponsible.

This obsession with security is something that has several layers of implications and several layers of reasons for its existence. To understand this concept is to understand German history, and to explain this concept would be almost as long and complicated as the history itself. Don't worry--I'll spare you.

So for now I will leave you with these facts and tell you that I have not come so far as to master Step III and I fear my first 23 years of life as an American may have ruined many of my chances at fully becoming a German in this sense.

So the facts:

In Germany one must be educated for almost anything they want to undertake professionally. Everything worth doing in life requires an education and a certificate. For that, education is free and excellent, but required nonetheless.

Germans start college/university asking themselves "what do I want to do?" and then they study it. Americans go to college and then ask themselves once they've graduated.. well now what!?

So with that in mind, when a German invests 5 years into education that leads directly and solely to a certain profession, they tend to stay there. Lest they have to educated/certify themselves again for another profession.

With this "one career" mentality also comes the fact that Germans can only be fired only given a valid reason and only with several months notice. And most state employees are not allowed to be fired at all! And if someone IS (heaven forbid) fired, the state provides generous benefits for 26 months and sustainable support for the rest of your life after that.

All of this both illustrates the fact that germans tend to stay in one career, for their life, and are willing to give up tax money to ensure that they have this support should something happen (and let's not even get started on what Americans think about taxes). This also somewhat explains why they stay in their respective towns forever... because they stay in their jobs forever...so mobility is far less widespread than in the US.

To go deeper into this security issue means I would have to start digging into economics, history, and much more serious stuff, and let's just say--in America convenience is king. To embrace Step II of the become-german program is already to let go of the convenience of throwing everything away and living in central air houses with rain showers. But to fully embrace German culture, you have to give up convenience entirely and live for security.

I haven't gotten there yet, but who knows...there is still a month left!

Until then... Good luck with the program! See you soon!

xo,
Mere








Monday, May 9, 2011

Stay-cation

Why go on vacation when I have everything I need here?


Coming back from 2 weeks of mind boggling ancient beauty, I expected to return to my cold, rainy, quiet harbor town for some detox and productivity. This is evidently not in the cards for my near future. Shucks.


No no, Flensburg is not rainy my friends. Quite the opposite actually (much to the dismay of the famers, who claim that Flensburg is in a drought after 3 whole weeks {gasp} with no heavy rain). Considering I don't have a farm to tend to I am absolutely giddy about the weather and have reacted accordingly by extending my easter vacation on into my Flensburg Un-real daily life.


As is customary with vacation blog posts, I feel it is only fitting to show you my life in the formerly-miserable (weather)-but-look-how-beautiful-this-is northern corner of the world via pictures.


Day 1 of un-real life vacation started on Friday by sharing a beer and freshly caught shrimps with my norwegian friend, Bastian, and room mate, Christoph, on the beach in Glücksburg. This is an old picture of the beach but it hasn't changed much in 9 months.


Though not raining (which is atypical) it is still REALLY windy, which is very typical. These little boxes protect beach goers from the ever-present baltic wind.

The next day I woke up early to meet up with a colleague and his wife to take a bike tour of the west coast of Schleswig-Holstein, which is about 30 min away from Flensburg by car. The sun rises around 5:20am nowadays so by 8:30am when I headed over to Wolfgang's, it was already quite warm and beautiful. Spring has finally sprung!


Beautiful Cherry tree outside Wolfgang's house. I never thought I'd see leaves or flowers again--this is quite the reward for a long hard winter. 
 The first stop on our West-coast tour was a tiny town (I mean, what ISN'T a tiny town up here...) called Husum.


Husum is the home of writer Thedor Storm who famously wrote about "Die Stadt am grauen Strand, am grauen Meer"--aka the city on the grey beach on the grey Sea. Wolfgang and wife seemed to be pretty excited about him and actually I think my german professors mentioned something about him before I left. I liked the views better. Sorry Professor Prager.


Anyway, because only tourists take pictures of silly everyday things like post offices because they are "cute", I decided to document the little town. Flensburg is  similar--but a bit bigger.


I'm really going to miss pedestrian only towns when I get back to the US. While I hated having to walk everywhere when I got here, I now enjoy getting my daily I-should-do-something-outside fix just by running errands.

We got to the Harbor at low tide so I got my first glimpse of "Watten"--aka tideland mud--and it was not very pretty. But it's apparently therapeutic. So there you go.  Here's a picture.


Boats really have to calculate when the come in and out... timing fail.


After our small-town excursion we followed the low-tide to Hamburger-Hallig (the dictionary definition of Hallig is "any of several small undiked islands off thecoast of Schleswig-Holstein" if that tells you anything) and rode bikes until we hit the actual "Watten-Meer" or the mud-flats of the North Sea. 


A lone bike-rider through the Marshlands en route to the North Sea. This is probably what we looked like to the thousands of Sheep we passed by.

After about 45 minutes of bike riding through serious winds we made it to the mud flats. For those of you who were interested in Flounder-Kicking, this is where it is done. For those of you who have NO idea what I am talking about...email me. 


My shoes taking in the view.
My feet taking in the Tide-land mud.




After smushing through the therapeutic mud for a bit, the tide came RACING in, and we had to book it back to land. 


We stopped for some more photos while riding through the Canola fields on the way back. I've decided that Schleswig-Holstein is amazing. 


Typical Northern Germany with the windmills. I guess the wind is good for something!


After we biked our way back to the car we drove for about 20 minutes until we reached the other awesome thing about Flensburg/Schleswig-Holstein: Denmark!


The border is actually (and inconveniently) in the middle of the road. My right leg is in Germany and my left leg is in Denmark. Trippy. Notice the thatched roof on the Denmark side. This is typical, and seen quite often in Denmark/Northern Germany. Great insulation and lasts for about 30 years before you have to replace it.


We putzed around Denmark for some time enjoying the nice weather and walked until we got to this church. In the wake of Royal Wedding Fever I feel it is relevant to mention that the Crowned prince  of Denmark married his princess in this church a few years ago. Now where was THAT on the news? Evidently Denmark is not as interesting as Great Britain, though I beg to differ. 


Built in the Middle Ages and as beautiful on the inside as it is plain on the outside.  The metal X's are seen on most old building here to prevent them from expanding (as stones are apparently wont to do) with age




After a long day of fighting head wind and taking pictures we finally headed back to Flensburg to enjoy a dinner on the terrace until the sun went down at 9:30pm and I biked home.


Day 3 of vacation happened on Sunday. After watching the Flensburg Sea Lords--the American Football team in town--dominate the Hamburg Pioneers in their season opener with a friend of mine, I headed to the beach with my roommates to do what people here seem to do when the weather is nice: Grill.


It was a bit cold, but a very german array of Wursts and Pork and Beer kept us warm.
We stayed until the sun set at 9:17.


Life is a beach. 


Then we took our freezing butts back home.


Today I took a long walk along the beach and then decided that life was too incredible not to blog about. SO here I am, and now you know.


Only 51 days, 11 hours and 15 minutes left of this vacation. Approximately. Going to do my best to document and enjoy as much as possible.


See you soon!