On the Street Where You Live

On the Street Where You Live
Bye snowy seagull... time to start thinking warm thoughts.

Sunday, May 29, 2011

I'm German!

It's hard to believe that there was a time when I was utterly unsuccessful at being German. I often wondered in those step-cleaning, bureaucracy battling, oh-my-god-it's-raining-AGAIN?- moments if I would ever have the chance to write a blog post where I could say "Ahh, finally. Germany--I get it! I LOVE it! Transformation complete!"

Well, it took a while I suppose, but here I am with 30 days to go, and I think I'm about as close as I'm going to get.

So what does that actually mean, being German?

Well, I'm glad you asked, and with the help of a few pictures, anecdotal stories and basic research I can show you how you TOO can become a German in 3 easy steps!

(As a caveat, this post represents only MY personal thoughts and experiences, and it is impossible to speak in generalities about things so serious as nationality... but it is also impossible to describe the interactions I've had with every single individual German I've ever met, so generality is all I can present. Please read accordingly.)

It only took me 9 months to conquer Steps I and II and with a little effort and maybe a lifetime of living here I could master Step III...but don't despair.... if you're willing to give up the heart of the American Dream, social mobility, blind optimism and the freedom to fail, Step III will be easy peasy!!

So dear American reader, please let me introduce you to the 3 step become-a-german program. Please feel to comment anytime if you have questions.


Step I: Be honest. (and punctual)

Are you tired of beating around the bush? Do you sometimes just want to have a respectful political discussion with no repercussions for honestly stating your opinions? Have you ever had to fight back the urge to tell a roommate/loved one that that dress does indeed accentuate the junk in her trunk, and orange is a horrible color on her?

Well then you are halfway there, my friend!

Step I of the become-German program begins by accepting the fact that politeness = respect here, and if you respect your friend you would never let them leave the house in something ugly--nor would you simply placate them by nodding along and mindlessly agreeing to their political statements as that would be disrespectful to the integrity of their arguments or beliefs.

You mean what you say and you say what you mean and that is that! When you ask "How are you?" you mean it! And you get an honest, meaningful answer in response. Usually of the negative flavor, but hey--we're just being honest here! And it is rainy a lot in Germany...

So throw your American idea of politeness = not hurting someone's feelings out the window! Put on your political hat, be forthright and honest, arrive on-time (punctuality is also very german and inherent in respecting people's time and a crucial part of Step I) and embrace your directness! Once you get the hang of that you are are ready to move on to Step II!

For more information on the application of Step I in the dating scene see Peach and Coconut entry.


Step II: Love the Environment

Once you've mastered the art of being honest and direct you're ready to conquer Step II--recycling, turning the heat down, and being generally ultra-aware of the Environment.

Awareness occurs in phases. In the first phase you will realize that not everything needs to be wrapped in plastic several times, and that bottles really can be used again/recycled! At some point it will occur to you that an entire apartment building full of about 30 people can manage to only have this many trashcans that are emptied only once a week.

Our building's trashcans--emptied once a week. Sorted for paper,  compost, and plastics

I think my college house of 3 (10x less than this building) girls went through two of these trashcans a week (a mere 3x less than here). You know you've passed through phase 1 when this idea blows your mind.

In Step II phase 2  you realize that heat is not only really expensive, it is a total waste of energy! Phase 2 is difficult because it not only requires utmost consciousness, but bear-like mental and physical strength to endure the cold.  When 58 degrees seems balmy to you, you are ready for phase 3.

Step II phase 3 is of crucial importance, and mastery of this phase brings you to a level of elite Europeans. This is not for the light of American heart and I believe most people may drop out of the program here. P3 is (drum roll please) Taking short showers and ACTUALLY employing the handheld shower head not for the sake of singing like Ferris Beuller, but for using it as your primary showering tool...WHICH MEANS in order to actually sufficiently lather you have to turn the water on and off in between lather sesh's. Saves water. Saves time. You're in and out in less than 5 minutes and you might as well have just saved the amazon river.

If you can do this--and not just because you CAN do it, but because your increasingly environmentally aware self is overrun with guilt that grows with every second you stand under the hot running water--phase 4 is inevitable.

Uttering the phrase, or harboring the silent thought "well THAT can't be good for the environment" means you are fully in german metamorphosis mode and well on your way to passing through phase 4.

If you are able to say this thought in direct and honest fashion (thereby incorporating Step I into the metamorphosis) you have finished building your cocoon, and it is time to move on to Step III.  Man, you are moving fast!

Step III: Covet thy Security

So here is the tricky part about Step III, and it is the MOST critical element in becoming a german. It requires strength, skill, and almost absolute deviation from traditional American Values.

If you've made it to this point at Step III you have successfully made your cocoon and are ready to transform into a beautiful German butterfly, but instead of breaking out of the cocoon you have made, as a german your job is to stay IN your cocoon, and make sure your cocoon is so tight and stable that it will never break.

If you still think of a credit card as "security" then you are still an American, because Germans are all about actual security--the money under the mattress kind of security--and the thought of paying for something with money that you do not presently have is absolutely the OPPOSITE of security. It is just irresponsible.

This obsession with security is something that has several layers of implications and several layers of reasons for its existence. To understand this concept is to understand German history, and to explain this concept would be almost as long and complicated as the history itself. Don't worry--I'll spare you.

So for now I will leave you with these facts and tell you that I have not come so far as to master Step III and I fear my first 23 years of life as an American may have ruined many of my chances at fully becoming a German in this sense.

So the facts:

In Germany one must be educated for almost anything they want to undertake professionally. Everything worth doing in life requires an education and a certificate. For that, education is free and excellent, but required nonetheless.

Germans start college/university asking themselves "what do I want to do?" and then they study it. Americans go to college and then ask themselves once they've graduated.. well now what!?

So with that in mind, when a German invests 5 years into education that leads directly and solely to a certain profession, they tend to stay there. Lest they have to educated/certify themselves again for another profession.

With this "one career" mentality also comes the fact that Germans can only be fired only given a valid reason and only with several months notice. And most state employees are not allowed to be fired at all! And if someone IS (heaven forbid) fired, the state provides generous benefits for 26 months and sustainable support for the rest of your life after that.

All of this both illustrates the fact that germans tend to stay in one career, for their life, and are willing to give up tax money to ensure that they have this support should something happen (and let's not even get started on what Americans think about taxes). This also somewhat explains why they stay in their respective towns forever... because they stay in their jobs forever...so mobility is far less widespread than in the US.

To go deeper into this security issue means I would have to start digging into economics, history, and much more serious stuff, and let's just say--in America convenience is king. To embrace Step II of the become-german program is already to let go of the convenience of throwing everything away and living in central air houses with rain showers. But to fully embrace German culture, you have to give up convenience entirely and live for security.

I haven't gotten there yet, but who knows...there is still a month left!

Until then... Good luck with the program! See you soon!

xo,
Mere








Monday, May 9, 2011

Stay-cation

Why go on vacation when I have everything I need here?


Coming back from 2 weeks of mind boggling ancient beauty, I expected to return to my cold, rainy, quiet harbor town for some detox and productivity. This is evidently not in the cards for my near future. Shucks.


No no, Flensburg is not rainy my friends. Quite the opposite actually (much to the dismay of the famers, who claim that Flensburg is in a drought after 3 whole weeks {gasp} with no heavy rain). Considering I don't have a farm to tend to I am absolutely giddy about the weather and have reacted accordingly by extending my easter vacation on into my Flensburg Un-real daily life.


As is customary with vacation blog posts, I feel it is only fitting to show you my life in the formerly-miserable (weather)-but-look-how-beautiful-this-is northern corner of the world via pictures.


Day 1 of un-real life vacation started on Friday by sharing a beer and freshly caught shrimps with my norwegian friend, Bastian, and room mate, Christoph, on the beach in Glücksburg. This is an old picture of the beach but it hasn't changed much in 9 months.


Though not raining (which is atypical) it is still REALLY windy, which is very typical. These little boxes protect beach goers from the ever-present baltic wind.

The next day I woke up early to meet up with a colleague and his wife to take a bike tour of the west coast of Schleswig-Holstein, which is about 30 min away from Flensburg by car. The sun rises around 5:20am nowadays so by 8:30am when I headed over to Wolfgang's, it was already quite warm and beautiful. Spring has finally sprung!


Beautiful Cherry tree outside Wolfgang's house. I never thought I'd see leaves or flowers again--this is quite the reward for a long hard winter. 
 The first stop on our West-coast tour was a tiny town (I mean, what ISN'T a tiny town up here...) called Husum.


Husum is the home of writer Thedor Storm who famously wrote about "Die Stadt am grauen Strand, am grauen Meer"--aka the city on the grey beach on the grey Sea. Wolfgang and wife seemed to be pretty excited about him and actually I think my german professors mentioned something about him before I left. I liked the views better. Sorry Professor Prager.


Anyway, because only tourists take pictures of silly everyday things like post offices because they are "cute", I decided to document the little town. Flensburg is  similar--but a bit bigger.


I'm really going to miss pedestrian only towns when I get back to the US. While I hated having to walk everywhere when I got here, I now enjoy getting my daily I-should-do-something-outside fix just by running errands.

We got to the Harbor at low tide so I got my first glimpse of "Watten"--aka tideland mud--and it was not very pretty. But it's apparently therapeutic. So there you go.  Here's a picture.


Boats really have to calculate when the come in and out... timing fail.


After our small-town excursion we followed the low-tide to Hamburger-Hallig (the dictionary definition of Hallig is "any of several small undiked islands off thecoast of Schleswig-Holstein" if that tells you anything) and rode bikes until we hit the actual "Watten-Meer" or the mud-flats of the North Sea. 


A lone bike-rider through the Marshlands en route to the North Sea. This is probably what we looked like to the thousands of Sheep we passed by.

After about 45 minutes of bike riding through serious winds we made it to the mud flats. For those of you who were interested in Flounder-Kicking, this is where it is done. For those of you who have NO idea what I am talking about...email me. 


My shoes taking in the view.
My feet taking in the Tide-land mud.




After smushing through the therapeutic mud for a bit, the tide came RACING in, and we had to book it back to land. 


We stopped for some more photos while riding through the Canola fields on the way back. I've decided that Schleswig-Holstein is amazing. 


Typical Northern Germany with the windmills. I guess the wind is good for something!


After we biked our way back to the car we drove for about 20 minutes until we reached the other awesome thing about Flensburg/Schleswig-Holstein: Denmark!


The border is actually (and inconveniently) in the middle of the road. My right leg is in Germany and my left leg is in Denmark. Trippy. Notice the thatched roof on the Denmark side. This is typical, and seen quite often in Denmark/Northern Germany. Great insulation and lasts for about 30 years before you have to replace it.


We putzed around Denmark for some time enjoying the nice weather and walked until we got to this church. In the wake of Royal Wedding Fever I feel it is relevant to mention that the Crowned prince  of Denmark married his princess in this church a few years ago. Now where was THAT on the news? Evidently Denmark is not as interesting as Great Britain, though I beg to differ. 


Built in the Middle Ages and as beautiful on the inside as it is plain on the outside.  The metal X's are seen on most old building here to prevent them from expanding (as stones are apparently wont to do) with age




After a long day of fighting head wind and taking pictures we finally headed back to Flensburg to enjoy a dinner on the terrace until the sun went down at 9:30pm and I biked home.


Day 3 of vacation happened on Sunday. After watching the Flensburg Sea Lords--the American Football team in town--dominate the Hamburg Pioneers in their season opener with a friend of mine, I headed to the beach with my roommates to do what people here seem to do when the weather is nice: Grill.


It was a bit cold, but a very german array of Wursts and Pork and Beer kept us warm.
We stayed until the sun set at 9:17.


Life is a beach. 


Then we took our freezing butts back home.


Today I took a long walk along the beach and then decided that life was too incredible not to blog about. SO here I am, and now you know.


Only 51 days, 11 hours and 15 minutes left of this vacation. Approximately. Going to do my best to document and enjoy as much as possible.


See you soon!



Sunday, May 1, 2011

GREECE!

At the Parthenon in Athens--this is a post blog picture post b/c I failed to mention that before this Mykonos-->Syros--->Kos Odyssey began, I was in Athens. See above picture for proof... and keep reading to find out about said Odyssey.

It’s amazing the lengths one will go to save a few dollars on Travel. You think I would have learned by now that cheap travel comes at a pretty steep price (namely sleep and convenience) but alas, here I am at the Mcdonald’s in Köln at 3:51am battling through drunk late-night eaters/revelers to find a place to sit and wait for my 5:01am train to Flensburg. Life lesson Fail. 

However, even though I’d much rather be sleeping than listening to the drunk chants of Cologne partiers while eating a burger for "breakfast", this 48 hour island-hopping, overnight-ferrying, red-eye flying and soon to be 7-hour train ride has been an eye-opening (I mean literally… I haven’t slept a whole lot) and actually pretty fun experience.

This journey began 2 days ago when we left our charming greek beach house on the windy, but beautiful Island of Mykenos where I had spent a wonderful and relaxing week with friends eating lots of Feta Cheese and olives and reading books. The weather was ironically warmer on my coastline home of Flensburg, but it’s incredible what the word “vacation” does to your ability to let yourself just sit and be unproductive for a whole week.

A small greek snack in our cute little beach house. 


The Island itself was arid and windy, but the buildings and downtown were exactly the blue and white splendor one thinks of when thinking about Greece. The water was as blue as the shutters on the windows of the white washed houses, and the newly bloomed easter poppies provided a splash of red and yellow over the rocky hills surrounding the town.

 FUN FACT--the streets are narrow and all the houses are white because the Island was subject to pirate attacks back in the day. The theory is, when the sun is shining on the the white houses it has a blinding effect on the attackers, and because the  streets are narrow, unmarked and winding (and all the houses look the exact same) the pirates would get lost in the blinding maze and the islanders could easily jump out and attack the blinded/confused prates as they tried to pillage and plunder and do whatever it is pirates do



It is in Mykenos that we spent Easter Saturday and were able to take part in the beautiful greek orthodox celebration of lighting candles at midnight and singing and walking around the church to celebrate Jesus’ resurrection (which they had been mourning since Friday).

The Priest was absolutely joyful when the bells started ringing at midnight to mark the resurrection. Until the joyful smiles and kissing of neighbors he stood in front of the town and sung prayers


After a week in Mykenos we went to Syros which was a quiet harbor town—still in the Cyclades, so more lush, but not particularly tropical by any means. We spent the afternoon enjoying the quiet overview from the churches and marveling at the blue of the water before eating a nice dinner on the harbor.

Syros


View of the St. Nikolaus church from Resurrection church on the peak of Syros. Obviously prettier in real life. Or with nicer cameras...

From Syros we took an overnight ferry to the home of Hippocraties: Kos, which arrived in the port just as the sun was coming up over the mountains and the Agean Sea. We stepped off the boat and were greeted ancient palm tree lined city walls and a warm breeze rather than the rough winds we had been experiencing in the Cyclades.

My friends Tara, Emily and I walked in a dream like daze (mostly because we hadn’t slept much on the rocky ferry but also because it was entrancingly beautiful) until the all too familiar cry of Greeks selling their wares snapped us into reality and we realized how hungry we were.

Our tourist outfits. That bag was 28 pounds. Don't ask how I schlepped that from beach to beach for 2 days. 

Fully equipped in our tourists outfits of sunglasses, wrinkled clothes, visors and backpacks, we tried our best to avoid the urgent card-waving/wares-peddling Greeks…but ultimately failed after being chased down by an old woman on a moped named Irene. She at least pointed us in the direction of some food and we ate microwaved spinach pie and chocolate croissants on a bench over looking the yachts and sailboats in the harbor.

At this point it was 7:00am and the food had settled our stomachs but had done nothing to wake us up, so we resolved to search for coffee along the beach. We didn’t find coffee, but we found some wonderful looking beach chairs (and nobody around to tell us we coulnd’t use them as beds) so we threw our stuff down and plopped on the chairs and slept soundly on the breach until 10:00 when blaring melody of “Tik Tok” from the beach shak behind us opened for the day.

We opened our eyes and beheld the gem like water, the beautiful stretch of beach, and the MTV spring break (euro style) vibe all around us, smiled, and went back to sleep.

Not us...but might as well be. This is where we woke up.


We made it to the tiny Kos airport after an hour long beautifully scenic taxi ride around 8:30 for an 11:45pm flight. My sunburned butt was not very happy to be sitting that long, but I guess on a positive note it was the reminder of a wonderful day.

And now, as I post this, I am back in Flensburg,  have officially washed the Mediterranean from my hair, changed the outfit I wore/slept in for 2 days straight, and am feeling ready to start the final chapter of my Fulbright journey.

Happy May Day! (And happy birthday tomorrow, Mom!)